Airbrush Tanning - DHA: How Does it Work

DHA: How it Works

When DHA (Dihydroxyacetone ), a colourless 3-carbon sugar, is applied to the skin a chemical reaction with amino acids in the surface cells of the skin occurs. A browning, or tanning, effect is produced. DHA does not damage skin -- it only affects the outermost cells of the epidermis. DHA carries less health risks than any other method to achieve a tanned appearance without sun exposure. DHA has been approves for sunless tanning by the FDA.

How Quickly Does it Act -- How Long Does it Last

The tanning action usually appears within an hour of application. Maximal darkening may take 8-24 hours to develop. An artificial tan produced by DHA will last until the dead skin cells rub off, usually 5-7 days with a single application.

How is DHA Formulated

There are many self-tanning preparations containing DHA on the market and many will claim to be best formulation available. Concentrations of DHA can range from 3 to 10%. This may coincide with product ranges that list shades as light, medium, or dark. A lower concentration (lighter shade) product may be better for new users as it is more forgiving of uneven application or rough surfaces. Some formulations will also contain moisturizers. Alcohol based preparations will be more suitable for oily-skinned users. Technically, DHA provides some minimal, short lived protection against UV rays. Alpha hydroxy acids promote the sloughing off of excess dead skin cells so should improve the evenness of coloration. Other ingredients may be added to facilitate application or to make the colour last longer.

Care and Handling of DHA Solutions

DHA is temperature sensitive and degrades at warmer temperatures. Consult the handling directions for your particular solution as it may have been prepared to increase stability at higher temperatures. As a general rule of thumb, storing your DHA solution at a 60-70 degree range would be ideal. But storing the solution at a temperature below 80 degrees would be adequate. Refrigeration should not be harmful to any of the ingredients in your solution. Air also causes the DHA to degrade rapidly. Any left over material from a spray session should be returned to an airtight container.

Application Safety

DHA is listed as a colour additive for use in adding colour to the human body. The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act authorizes the regulation of colour additives. The use of DHA in cosmetics is restricted to external application. External application specifically excludes the lips or any body surface covered by mucous membrane. Also, no colour additive may be used in cosmetics intended for use in the eye unless the colour additive is specifically permitted. Obviously, applying DHA as a spray or mist may present some challenges in complying with FDA proscriptions. Therefore, salon staff should take extra care in informing clients to avoid breathing the sunless product during the application process. Consumers should also try to avoid direct application of the product into the eye area, and use a lip balm or other barrier product on the lips and in the nostrils to avoid contact with mucous membrane. There should be proper ventilation for staff and clients in the sunless application area of the salon.

How to Achieve Best Results

The final result of a DHA sunless tan will depend on the formulation used, the operator's application technique, and the client's complexion type. Some application techniques to achieve a maximal DHA tan are: Prepare skin by cleansing then by exfoliating using a loofah or exfoliant. This will avoid uneven application of colour. Apply to skin in thin layers wherever you want colour, less to thicker skin, as colour is maintained longer in these areas. To avoid uneven darkening on areas such as the elbows, ankles and knees, remove excess solution over bony prominences with a wet cotton cloth. Wash hands immediately after application to avoid tanned palms. Alternatively, wear gloves to apply. To avoid staining of clothes, wait 30 minutes for the product to dry before putting on clothes. Don't shave, bathe, or swim for at least an hour, preferably 8 hours, after applying the product. Reapply regularly to maintain colour.

Precautions and Side effects

DHA self-tanners DO NOT provide significant protection to your skin against the sun. Despite darkening of the skin, an individual is just as susceptible to harmful UV rays. Although DHA does provide some short lived UV protection and many products contain additional sunscreen, the stated SPF for such solutions should only be regarded as effective for a few hours after application. It cannot be stressed enough that an overall sun protection program is still needed for sun exposure. DHA reacts quickly in the outer epidermis minimizing systemic absorption. Contact dermatitis caused by DHA has rarely been reported. Most causes of sensitivity are likely due to other ingredients such as preservatives in the preparation.

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